OLD GOA
The Town of Old Goa lies 9 km east of Panaji, along the Mandovi River. Old Goa once was the hub of Portugal’s empire in the East and Far East. Virtually abandoned after the river silted up and the new capital was set up at Panaji in 1843, all that remains of this once grand city are half a dozen churches and cathedrals that are considered amongst Asia’s largest. The Archaeological Survey of India has converted Old Goa’s ancient buildings into museums and the once glorious town has been granted World Heritage Status by UNESCO.
Old Goa had a turbulent history in the days before the Portuguese advent, under the Vijayanagris, the Bahamani Muslims and then as the second capital of the Adil Shahi dynasty of Bijapur. The beautiful port of Old Goa, also called Goa Doirada, Velha Goa and Golden Goa, became an important trading post. Riches from all over the world flowed in at this port, and the town flourished. Splendid temples, palaces and mosques were built; the ship building industry and commercial centers prospered.
In 1510, the Portuguese mariner Alfonso de Albuquerque vanquished Goa, an event that was commemorated with the building of the Arch of the Viceroys near the Chapel of St Cajetan, which was modeled on St Peter’s basilica in Rome. In an effort to convert Goa to Roman Catholicism, the Portuguese restructured the entire town, bringing down temples and mosques and in their place constructing churches and chapels. This architectural style, reminiscent of Lisbon, gives Old Goa a grand, Portuguese feel. Today, the Procession of All Saints on the fifth Monday in Lent is the only such procession besides the one in Rome.
The imposing Se Cathedral of St. Catherine lies southwest of St Cajetan’s. The church is larger than any church in Portugal and is the largest church in Asia. It has 14 altars, an 80m long aisle and 5 bells including the Golden Bell, said to be one of the best in the world. Se Cathedral
Amongst the few surviving edifices are the Church of St. Francis of Assisi and the Se Cathedral, which are built in the Baroque and Manuline style. The Archaeological Museum and Portrait Gallery functions in an abandoned convent in the compound. The museum is open daily except Friday, from 10am to 5 pm. Close to the convent of St Francis, the late 16th century Basilica of Bom Jesus with its richly gilded altars is famous throughout the Catholic world. This cathedral is the venue for a pilgrimage for both Christians and Hindus who come to pay homage to the embalmed mortal remains of Goa’s most famous saint, St. Francis Xavier, enshrined in a silver casket since 1553.
Also worth seeing, up on Holy Hill, are the Chapel of our Lady of the Rosary (one of the oldest in Goa), and the Convent of Santa Monica, reputed to be amongst the largest convents in the Portuguese empire, with a Miraculous Cross at the altar.
Getting there and around: It is easy to get to Old Goa from Panaji. The bus service from Panaji (9 km) is frequent and takes 15-20 minutes, dropping passengers right in front of the Basilica of Bom Jesus. Most of the monuments you want to visit are concentrated around this site. Autorickshaws, taxis and shared taxis are also available from Panaji. The GTDC conducts guided coach tours - details and tickets are available with the GTDC hotel or the tourist office.
Accommodation: Old Goa is normally done as a day trip, but if you are planning to stay here, there is a dearth of good hotels. Most tourists prefer staying at the coastal villages and nearby beaches of Anjuna, Vagator and Chapora, or with families as paying guests. The GTDC is a decent hotel in Old Goa. Rooms are available here for around Rs 250 upwards.
Dining: There are restaurants and wayside cafes around Old Goa that offer a variety of cuisine and are generally budget friendly.
